A good drop: Looking at the Pouilly-Fumé region

Henri Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé en Travertin 2013

RRP about $25

IF YOU'RE a devotee of the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc style but feel like being a tad adventurous, why not take a punt and look for something from the Pouilly-Fumé region instead.

The Upper Loire Valley in central France has two pre-eminent wine production regions - Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre. And while both produce really good sauvignon blanc, my own palate leans towards the whites from Pouilly-Fumé, such as the Henri Bourgeois en Travertin 2013 which I discovered during a recent research trip in France.

The Henri Bourgeois creation has a somewhat subdued nose with perhaps just a hint of green pear and rockmelon, but once on the palate, the gooseberry and grapefruit characters are unshackled and ride on a citric undercurrent all the way through to a steely finale.

There is enough fruit to engage the senses and abundant acid that sucks in the cheeks a little and provides a crisp, clean finish that makes it a perfect food wine for the most delicate of dishes.

Whereas the Kiwi savies tend to be high in residual sugar and hit the mouth like a tropical fruit firecracker on Guy Fawkes Day, the French (at least in the Pouilly-Fumé region) tend to produce medium-bodied conservative types of white wine that can be enjoyed on their own, but won't overshadow the meal.

Expect to pay $25 a bottle.

Travis Schultz is a practice group leader of Schultz Toomey O'Brien Lawyers ( part of Slater and Gordon), and a lover of fine food and wine

 


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