Raise your Glass

2009 Heggies Eden Valley Riesling

It’s a wondrous thing to engage with expertise: a tradesperson making a door fitted to a lopsided frame; a band, The Necks, improvising with enviable and extraordinary but well-practised ease; or a faultless wine from Peter Gambetta. If expertise and skill not-in-need-of-

validation were a drink: this is it. Reliability is a gift in a world, in lifetimes, characterised by shift. That’s why the proposed Margaret Olley Arts Centre would give us truly needed comfort, as well as challenge: the city’s permanent collection of expertise would be on view. $21.99, the Cellars (Ballina, Bangalow, Byron).

 

2009 Cassegrain Verdelho

Since I’m celebrating a year in this wine column, I should talk about a second really good wine. The 2009 is ‘a beautiful colour’ said my sister, a straw gold, unlike her honey-blonde hair. It has stone fruit on the nose, but citrus on the palate: spritzy and tangy lemon and pine that fall away just a little. But it’s a well-done, classy wine that tastes sweet when drunk with salty food, quite different from the ’08 which was dryer and sharper, but quite like it in expert making. About $15.95, Station Hotel, wine experts in Lismore.


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