Raise your glass

2009 Penna Lane Clare Valley Riesling

I had an idea for what a friend called ‘regional clothing’: a pale lime-green hand-knitted cardigan with rows of macadamias embroidered on it. My partner and I have slipped easily into naming macadamias a monoculture, one that planters may come to regret, as grape growers have in other parts of Australia. Penna Lane, because of the grape glut, has been sold to international business interests: China in this case. This pale lemon, green-tinged riesling, with a lemon perfume and lemon-pine palate, was on special for $17, normally $20, at the Cellars (Ballina, Bangalow, Byron).

2008 Hesketh Kremstal (Austria) Perfect Stranger Grüner Veltliner

Yellow to light lemon-gold in colour, this grüner veltliner has a strong, concentrated sweet bouquet of honey and apricot nectar. Beautiful on the palate: cold and clear like mountain river water. ‘Light’ my drinking companion said, but I thought it had medium depth, with some cream, peppery grass and length on the palate. Hesketh is an Australian winery. The wine is made with Kremstal’s Berthold Salomon. The grape is indigenous to Austria, but Hahndorf Hill Winery grows it in the Adelaide Hills where Gru is available this year. $23.95, Station Hotel, Lismore.


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